From March 10 to 14 I hiked with my oldest daughter Vivian into the Grand Canyon and it turned out to be quite an adventure. We hiked down the Hermit Trail to Hermit Basin where we followed the Dripping Springs Trail to the Boucher Trailhead. From there we hiked down the Boucher to Boucher Creek where we camped. Next we hiked across the Tonto plateau to the Hermit Creek campsite and on the following day proceeded to Granite Rapids. We hiked out on the 14th from Granite Rapids to Hermits Rest, 10.3 miles. Looking back on that last day it was a bit aggressive and we found ourselves low on water and enveloped in darkness. Not quite the way I had planned it. Details below…
Vivians Video Trip Report
video—Vivian’s trip report
Gravelboy’s Trip Report, Sunday, March 10
We left the Hermit trailhead at 7:15 am and began our long descent into the canyon. At this time I was debating whether to continue all the way by the Hermit or to take the more difficult Boucher Trail. The early going was over a crusty ice path and we used our Yak Trax for about an hour or so. At 1.5 miles we hit the Waldron trail sign and had removed our Yak Trax and never needed to use them again. At 1.8 miles we hit the Dripping Springs/Boucher Trail junction and I decided, based on the incredibly clear weather conditions, that we would continue to the more difficult Boucher Trail. I was also thinking this would give Vivian more exposure to the different trails as we planned to return via the Hermit trail anyway.
The Boucher Trail was extremely difficult. There is a section at the beginning that follows a contour for a long ways (about 2.5 miles) with nice views across the Hermit Basin of the Hermit Trail. From the trail below Yuma Point is a great view across Hermit Basin of the Hermit trail, Breezy Point and the connecting trail below the Cathedral Stairs. At that point, turning the corner below Yuma Point, the Whites Butte comes into sight and we began a very rugged descent. My thinking was that we would hit the junction with the Tonto Trail and take that around to the Hermit Creek camp site. This was the route I had taken in March 2005.
But it didn’t turn out to be that simple. When we arrived at the trail junction (Boucher Trail with Tonto Trail) we had come 8.9 miles and it was approaching 5:00. We each had about a half-liter of water with about 4.5 miles to Hermit Creek. Our option was to opt for the .4 mile detour to Boucher Creek and camp there. We were both beaten up by the Boucher Trail, happy to reach the junction, but not too happy to be faced with another 4.5 miles of trail with little chance of reaching our destination before dark. It was an easy decision. We would stay at Boucher Creek, get rested, and get fresh water.
The Boucher Creek site was excellent. The water source is clean, delightful to guzzle.
Video—Boucher Creek
Monday, March 11
The initial plan for the day was to hike over to Granite Rapids. That would be just a bit more than 10 miles. But we realized that according to our itinerary there really was no need to hurry over to Granite Rapids and we opted for a short day of 6.2 miles to Hermit’s Creek. While the hike was short, I was really feeling the effects from the Boucher Trail and was quite happy to limit the day’s hike. We arrived at Hermit’s Creek around 2:00 or so. We spent the afternoon in recovery mode. Vivian had her book to read and I was reading A Midsummer’s Night Dream, trying to add to my Shakespeare experience. When planning for this hike I came across a poem by Bret Harte called Dickens in Camp. Evidently Bret Harte greatly admired Dickens and wrote this poem shortly after learning of Dicken’s death. The poem is quite touching as Dickens is one of my favorite authors and it inspired me to read The Old Curiosity Shop before this hike. I also gave Vivian a copy of the book as well. My thinking was that we would honor Dickens by reading this poem at our camp. However, while I did read the book (The Old Curiosity Shop) and it was quite interesting and filled with special characters and events, the book just never had the impact on me like some of his other writings (most notably David Copperfield, and A Tale of Two Cities). It never crossed my mind to read Dickens in the Canyon after that. Just a curious note.
Tuesday, March 12
Today we hiked over to Granite Rapids and set up camp there. From Hermit Creek to Granite Rapids is about 5.1 miles. The first section is a climb out of Hermit’s Basin to the Tonto Trail junction. The next 2.3 miles are over the rolling Tonto plateau. Cope Butte is a prominent geographic feature as we hike around it to Monument Creek. The Tonto Trail switchbacks into Monument Creek with some marvelous views of a large natural rock spire. The final part of the hike was down Monument Creek to Granite Rapids. Much of the hike was following the dry creek bed as Monument Creek was only flowing at the beginning and then near the end at Granite Rapids. The water was very clear and cool. We had our second short day and spent the afternoon recovering and reading. Our initial plan was to hike back to Hermit’s Creek for our hike out of the canyon on the following day but that quickly changed when we realized there was no real advantage to retracing our steps all the way back to Hermit Creek. We decided to trace them back to the Tonto Trail junction and then start hiking out at that point. If we felt we couldn’t make it all the way out we would set up camp for the night. However, I had no doubt that we would make it out in one day. The hike out from Granite Rapids to the rim is 10.3 miles. We would be able to fill our water bottles at Monument Creek, 8.7 miles from the rim. That would mean we could guzzle at Monument Creek and have 2 liters each to get to the rim. I did not know it at the time but we cut it close with the water. It seemed like that would be plenty given the time of the year.
Wednesday, March 13
Video—Granite Rapids
We set out at about 7:15 am. Not bad but looking back we should have made a 5:30 am leaving time. Granite Rapids is about 2330 feet. Our first stop was Monument Creek (3000 feet) 1.6 miles later where we filled up. We arrived at the junction (3200 feet) about 10:15 (about 4 miles). At this point the hike out of the canyon begins in earnest. There is a long sloping set of switchbacks that lead to the Cathedral Stairs. The Cathedral Stairs are a series of shorter, steeper switchbacks that lead to the first plateau area at Breezy Point. Once we reached Breezy Point (4400 feet) I was feeling quite confident. But, the ascent to Breezy Point cost us. We had hiked in a hot sun and both of us were parched. We had consumed almost 1/2 of our water.
The next section of the Hermit is a series of zigs, always up. Once again we were hiking in the sun with only occasional relief. Our goal was Santa Maria Springs, just 2.3 miles from the rim. From Breezy Point to Santa Maria Springs is about 3.5 miles. About halfway the trail begins to follow a contour around 5000 ft. and that led us into Santa Maria Springs. It was now 5:00 pm and we still had 2.3 miles to go. The final 1.8 miles is very steep. We needed to push on, each with about 1/4 liter of water, because of the nearing darkness. At about 7:00 we were at the final trail marking, a sign indicating the Waldron Trail. We were 1.8 miles from the top, exhausted, little water, and darkness imminent. Vivian was always hiking ahead of me and she would slowly out-distance me. At about 1.5 miles darkness suddenly fell. I could still see the trail without a flashlight but I could not see Vivian any longer. I was sorry we didn’t agree to staying close together for this final push. But, after another .1 mile or so I saw her waving her flashlight and we joined up. For the rest of the hike we were close together. We would hike for what seemed hours and I would say “Viv, I need a break.” and we would take a break and check the GPS. We had made .1 mile since our last break-disheartening. At this rate it would take forever to get out as we were severely exhausted and hiking on fumes alone. So I resolved to myself to “man up” and make a push for the top. After an eternity of hiking, stepping over huge boulder steps, climbing endlessly long switchbacks I could take it no longer and asked for another break. We pulled up, dumped our packs and I eagerly checked the GPS. Another .1 mile! We still had .5 mile left and it seemed like it could just as well have been 50. And, because of the darkness, we couldn’t get a fix on exactly where the rim was.
Fortunately, within a few hundred yards Vivian reached a Grand Canyon warning sign that she remembered seeing on our way down on the first day. It was close to the trailhead she said. And she was right. In another 100 yards we emerged at the parking lot, thankful that the day’s hiking was finally over.
I know that I have been exhausted from other hikes. On the AT I remember coming off Stecoah Gap and straining my knee. I hobbled into the Brown Fork Gap Shelter where, off balance, I fell backwards. With my pack on I was like a turtle and was so weak it was only with great difficulty that I was able to get up. That was one time I remember being excessively exhausted.
When I did the Royal Arch to Boucher hike in 2007 I arrived at Hermit’s Rest about 7:00 in the evening-totally exhausted.
So, this 2013 hike ranks high in the exhausting hikes category. It was a solid hike-going down a challenging Boucher Trail, then across to Granite Rapids and then out via the Hermit Trail. Vivian was exceptional. I was very fortunate to have a strong hiker like her with me as she provided great encouragement.
