This hike took 5.5 days as we had to use a shuttle to reach the trail head. A couple of weeks before leaving I had received an email from the National Park Service—
March 3rd, 2010
This message is being directed to Grand Canyon National Park backcountry hikers who have been issued a March permit that involves the South Bass trail. The winter of 2010 has brought much snow to the rim of the Canyon resulting in the heaviest snow pack in recent memory. March brings a continued threat of these strong winter storms, warmer day time temperatures and a marked degradation of dirt roads. Hikers attempting to reach the South Bass trailhead via Forest Service road #328 have been experiencing major problems so at this point the Backcountry Information Center recommends serious caution and asks that you carefully weigh consequences of attempting to reach the trailhead.
First and most importantly, avoid vehicle travel altogether any time after mid-morning. As the daily thaw progresses the mud softens and the likelihood of getting stuck goes up exponentially.
When night time temperatures dip into the low 20’s, the snow will set and muddy areas will freeze allowing some well equipped four wheel drive vehicle to reach the trailhead between the hours of 4 a.m. and 7 a.m. Extraction equipment like a shovel, tow strap, tire chains and a winch should be carried because assistance could be delayed and/or costly.
The Kaibab National Forest has placed a barricade on #328 as a warning to the unprepared and ill equipped, but the closure is not mandatory. If you proceed past the barricade remember that the risk is yours.
Always stay on the road. The environmental damage created by attempting to drive around problem areas is significant and can result in citation. If you cannot proceed then park to the side of the road and walk to the trailhead. Do not leave your vehicle abandoned in the middle of the road. For the latest information and further updates go to the park website and look for “backcountry updates and closures” or go direct by typing the following into your address bar: http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/trail-closures.htm.
Most backcountry areas from Tanner to Royal Arch are full during the month of March so it is very unlikely that the park will be able to shift your itinerary to a new location. Hikers wishing to cancel their permit or provide a field report to rangers can call 928 638 -7679 or send us an email at grca_bic@nps.gov (provide permit number, last name and indicate that you will not be using your permit).
Lon, Matt and Mark, Backcountry Information Center
Grand Canyon Visitor Center, March 12, 2010
So, we knew we were going to have to deal with snow. However, past experience taught me that the Park Service will error on the side of caution. Also, the snow may be an issue for the first part of the hike but I didn’t believe it could reach far into the canyon. Also, I wanted to go on this hike very much and so came up with all kinds of reasons that it would be OK to continue. Because of this email I hired a shuttle driver that I have used previously.
Pasture Wash Road about 1 mile from the South Bass Trailhead.
The shuttle driver, Amy Tacey, a local at the Grand Canyon for a number of years, was able to leave us about a mile before the trailhead. The snow was really bad and it just wasn’t feasible to try to get any closer. Jesse and I were ecstatic to get an early start. The South Bass had a substantial snow pack for about 1/2 mile. We hiked along the contour from the Darwin Plateau to the junction below Montezuma Point. There were several landslides that obliterated the trail. This made for several areas that were difficult to cross and then, once crossed, to refind the trail. After reaching Sophi’s pour-off (2008 hike) we tried to find the best way down but could not find the passage Sophie discovered two years ago. We did find an acceptable solution but I had to make a jump of 7 to 8 feet and hit rather hard. It was an easy jump for Jesse but man, I don’t like making those jumps. We had to make several smaller jumps as we worked our way down to the canyon floor. So, all in all, it wasn’t a bad first day. We set up our camp at the exact location Sophi and I used two years previous. We were sheltered by some large rocks and at first were going to sleep under the stars but a storm started to roll in. It sleeted on us for several hours and the the storm passed and the stars came out.
It’s Sunday morning, it’s about 7:30, it sleeted on Jesse and me last night. We have a little bit of sleet residue on our tents this morning, but, uh, it wasn’t bad. We were in our tents for quite a while though. Yesterday was a pretty intense day—first day on the trail. We started with the, uh, shuttle driver picking us up at the backcountry parking lot in her 4-wheel drive vehicle and then we headed out to Pasture Wash Road or actually highway 328 which joins up with Pasture Wash. But, uh, it was a pretty difficult ride. It was covered in snow. Um, she got stuck two times and uh, actually Jesse had to dig her out and get her going again and we got to about a mile from… a little less than a mile from the trailhead the second time and so we just hiked up to the Bass Canyon trailhead from there.
Um. Hiking down the trail went very well. Uh, the trail was pretty easy to follow and it wasn’t until we were below Montezuma Point that it began to disintegrate on us and we had a couple of landslides that had covered the trail and made it very, very difficult to find. But we didn’t lose very much time. Not like in previous excursions out here, uh. We were able to pretty much, uh, work our way always forward and uh, did arrive at Sophi’s jump, er, not Sophi’s jump, Sophi’s…um, uh, Sophi’s pass—that one place where we always have a difficult time getting down and Sophi found an easier way down when we were here two years ago. But we couldn’t find it and, uh, Jesse and I combined to find a different route but it involved about a…I don’t know…I think it was about a seven foot jump, and that’s too much for me. I hit the ground pretty hard but, uh, I was OK but boy I don’t like that stuff. And uh, since then we just worked our way down and we camped at the same place Sophi and I camped at uh, two years ago. Uh, we arrived in plenty of time. Just kind of laid around in the nice warm sun and then we weren’t going to set up our tents but it turned out that uh, clouds started to come in, a few little drops came down, so we started to set ’em up. During the night it sleeted for probably til about 10:00 or so—maybe even later. But uh, you could hear the wind whipping and the sleet was coming down and when I got up this morning you could see the sleet on the net on the tents. So right now we’re getting ready to head out for our second day.
Day 2, March 14, 2010
Gravelboy boulder hopping on the Royal Arch Route.
Day 2 was arguably the most difficult day. A lot of boulder jumping, pond wading, problem solving going on. For example, Jesse and I encountered some boulders blocking the trail but at the same time provide a sort of slide. Since this was my third time on the Royal Arch I knew the trick to come down the slide (press the rock ceiling and scoot down slowly) but unfortunately we didn’t capture it on video. I did get Jesse come crashing down though. This is a typical day 2 situation. We were constantly coming to roadblocks in the tributary caused by falling rocks and collected water and then having to figure out a way to proceed. We probably only hiked about 6 miles this day but it was exhausting as much of it is boulder climbing and jumping.
An interesting note, shortly after wading the ponds we ran into a group of 3 hikers. They were going THE OPPOSITE way on the Royal Arch. Actually, after talking with them, we found that they weren’t doing the Royal Arch Trail but had entered at Huitzil Point and worked their way down to Toltec Beach. They had budgeted two days to return by the same route. Their vehicle was parked at the Pasture Wash Ranger Station. Going out that way is very difficult. I assumed they were rock climbers. Jesse and I thought of a number of questions to ask them after they had left.
Day 2 in the afternoon we arrived at the rappel site. The rappel went off without a hitch. After we rappelled we made for Toltec Beach where we set up camp for the night.
Well, it’s approxicant…approximately, ahhh, 7:07 I’d say. I guess we just arrived at Toltec beach just a few minutes ago and I was just setting up the tent and, uh, man, today was something else. I guess worlds…words can’t describe how awesome this adventure has been so far. It’s the second day but so far everything has been going pretty good except for a few slips and falls in different places, but man, this is really something else, huh? This is my first time doing the Royal Arch and man, it’s pretty tough. But it’s fun. You know. I guess it’s even funner doing it with my father-in-law, Mr. John Hayes, but man, he loves doing this kind of stuff but he’s pretty crazy. And you should see all the wild things he did today, but… man (what else do I have to say?)… Oh, yeah! I forgot about our adventure to seeing the, I guess the natural arch. Now that was an adventure as well. We wound up taking our packs three tenths of a mile past the junction point and, uh, I guess we paid for it later on our way back, but got some great pictures you know. And I guess it’s a lot better seeing the arch in person then it is on a postcard. As far as today you know, I guess everything’s been good. And thank God it’s still going good. Set up my tent, put everything up and get ready to grub. Alright, I guess that about sums it, you know as far as for me. I guess I’m not the best speaker but I try, right? Alright, talk to you later. Bye.
Day 3, March 15, 2010
Jesse at Elves Chasm.
Day 3 involved a difficult hike to Elves Chasm and was highlighted by actually reaching Elves Chasm and then swimming out to the waterfalls. It was the highpoint of our hike. It was also our last known water source until we reached the Bass Canyon, about 15 miles away. We were planning on being there Tuesday in the late afternoon. So water becomes a problem. You can’t carry too much because of its weight and that only makes you thirsty. You certainly don’t want to carry too little. I don’t know how this hike could be managed during a hot month but we each had 64 ounces (2 Nalgene bottles) of fresh Elves chasm water and we rationed it like gold. Well, I tried to ration it. But I found myself thirsty and in the Grand Canyon you have to honor your body’s requests. So I would take 4 swallows and planned to only use 32 ounces for the day and save the other 32 for Tuesday.
After leaving Elves Chasm we headed up the Granite Gorge toward Garnet Canyon. Jesse was able to find the path leading out and we made good time crossing this perplexing canyon. By the way, we did find some water there but it was a bit salty. I never needed to drink it but it was good to have it for insurance. Water was a concern.
After exiting Garnet we were able to easily reach a rock outcropping that I had used for my camp 3 years ago. I had it marked on my GPS and 2 years ago Sophi and I stopped there for breakfast. We arrived in good time and set up camp for sleeping under the stars. The weather was clear and warm.
The day was very successful. We had made it to Elves Chasm and witnessed its beauty. We had found our way across, up and out of Garnet Canyon with minimum off-trail time. Our campsite was a good one, perfect for viewing the stars.
Well it’s Monday, May 15 (sic). Jess and I just got back from a grueling hike to Elves Chasm. It was really tough but it was a great reward. We walked back a ways and saw the falls. Got to swim out…um, go under them a little bit, real cold water but got the blood pumping and we’re back at Toltec Beach now. Um, we got water up there but I can see water is going to be our main concern now because it’s kind of a long stretch to the next reliable water source. Maybe we’ll get lucky along the way. Um, that’s about it for now.
I guess I woke up around 8:00 this morning. I guess Mr. Hayes was already up, and washing up down near the Colorado River. But we got ready, geared up, and ended up hiking out to Elves Chasm which was a mile and a half away. And, we actually made it all the way up Elves Chasm which was amazing, you know, and uh, here comes Mr. Hayes with a crazy idea like always. And the waters maybe around 40 degrees or so I believe, I’ll ask Mr. Hayes. And this guy takes off his shirt and jumps right in. At Elves Chasm there is a little waterfall so I guess he found a good place to sit while I took a couple of pictures. And after those two pictures he was off to get out cause man was that water cold. And, uh, I guess I went in. Did it. You know. I mean you know I guess I couldn’t of left the Elves Chasm without doing it too. But man, was that water cold. The first thing I did when I jumped in was, I don’t know, I guess set into some panic but I knew I had to get there, sit down and pose for a few pictures. I posed like I was tough but actually I was really a big wuss, I was just ready to get out of there. Soon as I hit the water again, before I got out, man, I just felt a shock right through my body. But that was over real fast. And man was it amazing. Think I’ll never do anything like that again. But, um, I guess as soon as we were finished we started hiking out Elves Chasm when a bunch of rafters arrived. And at that time we were ready to get…get back to Toltec Beach so we can get the rest of our camping supplies that we left there before we left for the hike to Elves Chasm.
From there we hiked a few miles to Garnet Canyon, I believe, and man, that was pretty tough. A lot of jumping over rocks, and climbing and trying to figure out things…you know, trails were decent but not really perfect so it made us work until we finally arrived here at campsite three according to Mr. Hayes. Hmmm, maybe about 35, 40 minutes ago.
Finished eating, washed up. Laying down already and fixing to start reading a book. As far as the hike goes, uh, the day goes today, I mean day three was pretty intense. You know, I’m tired and just ready to relax. Man. What a day. Alright. I guess this is the end for the day. Goodnight.
Day 4, March 16, 2010
Day 4 was a slog. We hiked up, into, and across two enormous canyons and several smaller canyons. Fortunately we found water at an unnamed canyon. I do not know why this canyon has no name but it is huge. It lies just below the Spence Terrace. Maybe it has a name but my map doesn’t show it.
Copper Canyon with a view of Mount Huethawali
Copper Canyon was the second large canyon. And it was as dry as a bone. I really expected to find some water there. This canyon gave us a view of Heuthawali. We hadn’t seen Heuthawali for 2 days and now we could look up Copper Canyon and see it. We were looking at the backside now.
Jesse found the trail that led down to Bass Canyon. On the previous two treks I had missed the trail and hiked directly by Tyndall Dome to the junction of the South Bass Trail and the East Tonto Trail. The water hole is 0.6 mile below the cairn marking this junction on the South Bass Trail. By entering the South Bass Canyon the way we did we cut 1.2 miles which was a bonus. The entry was rocky and fairly steep but we made progress and arrived at the campsite in the early afternoon. It was nice to have water again.
Looking down the South Bass Trail at Dox Castle and the Holy Grail Temple.
Good morning. It’s 9:33 Wednesday, it’s the 17th, um, 2010. Jesse and I, we camped at uh, this water hole on the South Bass Trail, uh, we walked 10.8 miles yesterday. Um, it’s mostly just walking, uh, a uh, contour into canyons and out. There was one fairly large canyon and then we hit Copper Canyon which was huge, and, uh, we had to make some difficult crossings across some cracks in it and then find our way out. And it was bone dry. We were hoping to get water there. So, yesterday was a day of water. We were concerned about that. But we did arrive at our campsite at a nice time, and, uh, there was water there. We’re hiked out a little ways right now. We’re about a mile from, uh, that campsite. And we’re taking a break here and we’re looking out and I took a snapshot of this…this feature. It’s looking over what were, we see as Dox Castle and we think it might be the Holy Grail Temple. But we’ll check it out when we get back home. So, uh, it’s quite an interesting feature and the sky is blue, there’s all kinds of contours in it and we’re about ready to head out.
Man, I guess um, there really isn’t anything else for me to say. I guess this about covered it except for that dry spot in the canyon. I believe it was Copper Canyon. Man, do I hate that canyon. I was really glad to get out of there. It seemed like it was never ending, you know. Man. So, Mr. Hayes, do you think there’s water over that hump? He’d say, Yea, I hope. Don’t stop, just keep going.
We found a shortcut leading to the water you know. Saved us, I guess, 1.2 miles. So, man it was worth it but man was it steep and it was pretty hard, I mean. Took a toll on my knees and my feet. But we made it there. Guess, maybe it was about like 5:30 when we arrived. And then we were happy. Man did that water taste great. But, as far as everything else, Mr. Hayes just about covered it. Alright, take it easy. Talk to you later.
Day 5, March 17, 2010
The esplanade just below Huxley Terrace.
(Wednesday) was a march from the water hole to the esplanade. We actually camped beside the marker for the pack trail that begins the Royal Arch Loop.
OK, it’s ah, Thursday morning, it’s uh March 18, about 7:45, standing here in front of Huethawali looking out over the valley…beautiful light in this early morning. Jess and I arrived here about 2:00 yesterday and, uh, we’re ready to make the final push out today. Right now I’m just going to put a band-aid on my toe which kind of got blistered a little bit, kind of squished in my sock. I don’t know how that happened. And we should be off within 15 minutes or so. Um, we’re really looking forward to hitting topside.
Alright. Well, I guess today’s the 18th and I guess yesterday I wasn’t able to talk about the hike. But um, I guess yesterday we started off at campsite 4, and we hiked approximately a little over 4 miles, but it was like straight up, you know. It was pretty tiring but fun. Took us, mmm, let me see, maybe about 5 hours I say. Guess we arrived here at the esplanade about mmm 1:15, 1:30 or so. But man, it was really tough day yesterday. Even though it was just 4 miles, you know I mean, guess the hardest thing is just going straight up. Not actually straight up, just working your way around the hills and the mountains and getting out of the damn canyon. Excuse my language, huh. Man it felt good to finally get out of that canyon, you know. But other than that it went smooth. We got here early to the esplanade, got to relax for a long time. It felt good. Right now we’re ready to go, washed up, ready to hike out of here. But as far as everything else has gone, you know, this has been a really good trip. Considering all the…I guess considering everything else but as far as me I’m ready to get out of here. I’m sure Mr. Hayes is ready to get out of here too. But man, it’s been a long five nights, six days. Man, last night even seemed like it took an eternity. I don’t know how many times I woke up last night. I don’t think I was able to sleep. Finally daylight broke and I was up and I was ready to go. I guess here, in a few minutes, we’ll start hiking up. I guess hiking out of this Royal Arch. Sure is something though. One of the toughest things I’ve ever did in my life. But man it sure does wake you up. Sure does look nice up there with all that snow up there right now. Can’t wait to get up there and get a bite of snow. Cause I haven’t seen any since like maybe the second day we were out here we got a little bit of sleet. But I really didn’t get to taste it like the first day.
Alright, well I guess I’m going to wrap it up for now. You know, I guess there wasn’t too much to say about yesterday except going up a little over 4 miles and today I think we just have a two mile hike up the mountain. Should take a couple of hours. A little, a little extra give or take. But no rush. The ride will be here at one. I guess we’ll just take our time, and we’ll get up there. Alright. Guess I’ll close for now. Bye.
Day 6, March 18, 2010, a Thursday
Gravelboy and Jesse at the South Bass Trailhead, March 18, 2010.
Little did we know what day 6 was going to bring. The snow for the last 0.3 mile was knee deep and the going was very slow and tiring. Listen—
Well Jess and I are about .1 a mile from the trailhead. We’ve hiked up from the… where we camped. It’s one mile exactly where we are. This last couple of tenths of a mile has been through some intense snow. It, uh, comes up to Jesse’s knees. I’ve been using his footprints to walk in basically but, uh, he’s been breaking the crust. It’s been…it’s been a tough slog. It’s absolutely beautiful out here, the light hitting the Huxley Terrace and Mount Huethewali. And, uh, I’ve just had to take numerous rest breaks because it has been really exhausting climbing out of here. Didn’t think it would be but it is. When we get topside we’ll have Jess close things out.
Well we finally made it up here. I guess a grueling two hours and forty five minutes to be exact. Man it feels good to be up here but man did that snow give us hell climbing up here. It sure isn’t fun—hiking in shorts and having that snow scratch your legs. That feeling doesn’t feel very good. But man, I guess like I was saying earlier as far as this experience, um, been good. I think overall it was a great experience and, uh, man you know, the first few days were I guess a lot better than these last couple of days. But man it was well worth it considering all the obstacles we had to go through. You know I guess somehow I’m sure the Royal Arch changes every time you come out here. Seems like a lot of things were put in our way but we found ourselves, I guess, around them. I guess we found our ways to get around each and every one of them. But man, here we are now. I didn’t think we were every going to get here you know. Man it sure is an amazing sight from here on top. Looks like we have a little more hiking to go you know. We found a, a letter that was left for us saying that if our ride wasn’t here by eleven we’re going to have to hike a few more miles and meet her. Cause most likely she was probably stuck. So that was very interesting. But that was very nice of her. But, uh, man I’m standing here at the edge looking down at the Grand Canyon. Looks amazing. I sure am happy to be up here. Man. Dang. Guess my father-in-law is a hoss. He did a great job and so did I as far as it being my first time but man, I don’t think I’ll ever forget this experience. It’s been one of my hardest experiences I’ve had to go through in my whole life. But, it was easy, now looking back at it. It wasn’t too bad. But man it’s amazing if you can come out here three times, especially with the way everything changes out here. But man, I’m just ready to head back home and see my Mama and my little baby. I’m sure before no time I’ll b e back there, but other than that it was an awesome trip. Just glad to be back on top. I’m out.
