Vapor Trail

The Methodist Church in Salt Lake City sponsored a trip to London and Amsterdam and their environs for congregants during June, 1969. My parents and brother Bob eagerly signed up. Well, my parents anyway. Slide carousels 7 & 8 and my Dad’s notes chronicle this trip (200 slides).

At this time, June 1969,  I was at Arrowhead Springs near San Bernardino, Ca, working at a hotel kitchen for the summer. As an aside, this was probably the funnest, freest, most carefree and adventuresome time of my life, being 19 at the time. My sister was taking care of our dog Sunny and our home in Salt Lake City. This was just prior to her move to Great Falls, Montana where she would be teaching French at Paris Gibson HS. This was her first year as a teacher. This was also the time that Apollo 11 landed on the moon.

Carousel 7 contains slides taken on the first part of the trip. Slides are dated July 12, 1969—July 22, 1969. Carousel 8 has 100 slides, 33 of them purchased. The slides my father took were, for the most part, typical tourist photos of the different places in London and the English countryside as well as a few slides taken on their short stop in Amsterdam. While in England there was an emphasis on Methodism and the birthplace of John Wesley. The slides are not labeled, unfortunately. Some have a slide number and the processing date of Aug 69. Others have no information at all. There are pictures of individuals with no information of who they are, when the photo was taken, nor the location. My dad did keep a notebook about this trip and fortunately Marilyn was able to find it and mail it to me.  My father also purchased slides at different places on their itinerary and mixed them in with his photos. The purchased slides provide location information so that was useful in organizing the slides and identifying locations. Also, I was able to identify some of the locations by doing a reverse image search. That didn’t always work but I was lucky a few times (for example identifying Warwick Castle and related towers).

Hooray! Special update—the notebooks arrived. There are about 40 pages. I was able to date the photos based on information my father left. Here’s the first entry and I’ve transcribed it as well—

NOTE-Throughout this posting I’ve transcribe my Dad’s notes using Italics. Some of his notes are clearly written, others not so much. I believe he was writing in this book while being out in the field on guided tours, trying to capture what the guide was saying. His handwriting is quite good, but in this journal it appears cramped and difficult to read in parts, probably depending on where he was journaling. Maybe he would journal while on the bus or maybe he waited until he was back at the hotel room. Fortunately the journal is dated, for the most part, and provided a lot of information where they were on each day. Here is a rough itinerary that I created from his journal—

• • July 12, 1969 -Salt Lake City-Denver-Chicago
  • July 13-London, Swaston-Cambridgeshire-Cambridge
  • July 14-Epworth-St Andrew
  • July 15-Coventry
  • July 16-Warwickshire-Stratford upon Avon-Coventry
  • July 17-Oxford, London
  • July 18-London
  • July 19-London
  • July 20-Amsterdam
  • July 21-Amsterdam
  • July 22-Delft-Madurodam-Aalsmeer-Amsterdam
  • July 23-Cologne-Bonn-Frankfurt
  • July 24-Heidelberg-Black Forest-Basel
  • July 25-St. Blasein-Basel,
  • July 26-Basel-Lucern
  • July 27-Bern-Grindelwald-Interlaken-Bern
  • July 28-Gurten-Bern
  • July 29-Lac Retaud-Geneva
  • July 30-Geneva
  • July 31-French border-Paris
  • August 1-Versailles-Paris
  • August 2-London-Chicago

My attempt is to transcribe words and punctuation as written.

---

Sat, July 12, 1969

Flight 222 to Chicago. Stop at Denver. Helen was already at the airport, as we were checking in George Davis popped in with Marc and Rhetta Joe to wish us Bon Voyage, a wonderful and warm-hearted gesture. Marilyn saw us off and will oversee things until we return. We feel our home is in good hands for our journey. The flight is a real thrill for Bob and Betty (and enjoyable for me as well). It was a new experience for the two of them to have a meal on a jet. Take off was at 11:05-right on schedule. We climbed to cruising altitude and banked over the Wasatch front. A beautiful, clear morning, about 78° and sunny bright. The flight took us over the Dinosaur National Park area, across the Green River and then the Rockies. Before we knew it we broke out into the high plains area and began our final approach to Denver. Bob rode the window seat and Betty took the middle-#11A and B. I took #C (on the aisle). Served us Reuben sandwiches and cake.

Out of Denver at 1:10 and bound for Chicago-estimating 1 hour 40 minutes. Hardly seems possible compared to our 3-day drive two years ago. Clear skies and bright sun above-scattered clouds all across the midwest as we flew at 33,000 feet. A delicious lunch was served-Salisbury Steak, mashed potatoes, succotash, rolls and butter and tossed green salad with Thousand Island dressing, Boysenberry cobbler with whipped cream for dessert. Arrived at 3:05 (4:05 Chicago time) and greeted by Thelma, Ray and Marc. Matched up shortly with Bob Huddleston and then to TWA counter after picking up baggage (it was there ahead of us). Whitakers and Sherburnes were there on time. Had a pleasant visit with Ray and Thelma followed by briefing and assignment of rooms for tour-everyone has a copy. After a Coke break and visit with Ray and Thelma we loaded at Gate 8-TWA #170. Weather rainy-scattered showers at O’Hare prior to departure. Capt. Roddie and Purser Lowrie. Est. time to London-7 hours, 9 minutes. Had a delicious dinner, while cruising at 33,000-Sirloin Steak, king-size fries, crab salad, buttered green beans, coffee and a delicious cake.

As you can see, my father was pretty detailed in his information. I’ll transcribe his notes and let my father tell the story. I will add an appropriate slide or two. Their itinerary was exhausting!

---

July 13, Sunday

Listened to in-flight stereo and then watched movie The Love Bug. Sherry loaned me her earphones. Believe it or not-it started getting light about 10:00 pm Salt Lake time-beautiful to see the pre-glow in the East-painting skyline and clouds pink. Took a time exposure and later shot a picture at 1/25 second [illegible]. Hope they came out. We lose 6 hours between Chicago Time and London Time. The stewardesses started serving juice at about 6:15 London time and the sun was shining bright as could be above the cloud cover, and off to the left-what appeared to be a channel through the fog turned out to be the wake of a ship-just North of us. A light breakfast was served-coffee, juice and breakfast roll. Got a color shot (via Bob) after the sun was all the way up. An interesting pattern formed by the wing of our 707. Spotted land at 7:35 am-Ireland-Over Belfast. At 7:40-Pilot woke us up with a big ho-hum (we hadn’t actually slept all night). 

Landed at London, 8:20 and checked through immigration. Then out to baggage area and to bus. Met by Rev and Mrs. Le Cato Edwards. Weather sunny and warm at 9:00 am. Driver’s name is Eddie. Countryside is flat to gently rolling-lots of large trees. Many of the homes are brick with several chimneys. Sign on Congregational Church in London “Christian-don’t wear the label if the “goods” aren’t inside.

First stop was Swaston Hall*—ancestral Huddleston Home for the Last 520 years.

*From Wikipedia—the Swaston estate was held by the Huddleston family from 1517 until the 1980’s…in 1553, when Mary Tudor (soon to be Mary I of England), fleeing imprisonment by the Duke of Northumberland, spent the night at the hall.

Le Cato-Missionary in India, Hyderabad-34 years. Many flowers in bloom. Roses and Hydrangeas, etc. Also near edge of city a lot of small garden plots where people raise their own produce.

Many tract homes or “row houses” in evidence plus lots of new apt. buildings.

Rose trees appear to be popular in rural area, the commercial produce harvest has started. Countryside is quaintly charming-[illegible] dairy herds plus one canal loaded with swans. Weather continues sultry and bright and the country develops a good roll as we near High Cross.

Lunched on a chicken sandwich and tea-English style-then on the road again at [1:00] sharp. The cost was 25¢ per person and included pastries or cakes. 

Arrived at Swaston Hall at 12:30. Mrs (Capt) Eyre Huddleston very graciously took us on a tour for 1 1/2 very fascinating hours. What a tragedy that they may lose this home due to ever-increasing taxes. I have never seen anything like it-full of antiques-tapestry-ancient furniture and artifacts. It should be saved. 

On the way again by 2:00 thru Cambridge by 2:40. The highways are exceptionally well-marked. Some places there are orange poppies right along the road and in one spot I saw a whole field of them. Most of the fields are separated by hedge row-which make for a very pretty pastoral scene. Some of the road is “Duel Carriageway” which makes for a lot less hectic driving. Most of the cars are compact and economical to run in spite of the high price on gasoline-about 65¢ a gal (84¢ Imp gal). Most of the motorists appear to carry folding chairs and tables and set up for a rest or picnic right along the shoulder of the road.

It is amazing how many churches you see. It seems you’re seldom out of sight of one.

Tile is used extensively for roofing-both the fluted type and the slate-type tiles. As we continue north thru rural England more and more sheep are in evidence-along with dairy herds and horses. Fields are in good order and a large hay crop is being harvested-mostly as bales. The bus is becoming more comfy now as there is a fresh breeze which helps cool things off in spite of the sun.

Dinner was served in the bldg by The Old Rectory-a delicious cold plate and chicken noodle soup. Dessert of vanilla pudding, fruit and whipped cream. Church service and sermon by Bob Huddleston. Following tea and cakes, we presented a slide showing and then home to bed. Betty and I stayed with Edwards family overnite-Hilda and Cato told us some of the history of the area and a little about their life as missionaries. Their furniture in dining room was hand made in Kashmir. They picked out the logs and had the furniture made-it’s hand carved.

---

July 14, Monday

Breakfast at The Old Rectory*. Grapefruit sections, bacon and an egg-white and brown bread followed by toast and coffee.

Visited Axholme School-one of the boys said they go 5 days a wk “Sundays a Church Day”. They go year round-6 wks vacation in summer time, a week at Whit Sunday Sept-Aug-2 1/2 wks Easter and Christmas-40 weeks work, 12 weeks holidays.

*From Wikipedia—Old Rectory-Epworth. Rebuilt 1709. Maintained by the Methodist Church. Home to Samuel Wesley, wife Susanne and their 19 children, one of whom, John Wesley, became the founder of Methodism.

Old Parish Church of St. Andrew. Built in 12th century, central portion of the original church (1113—1116). Tower next and finally chancel area to right. Samuel Wesley preached here. Used to build church on highest point. No road-just a walk. It’s still called “Churchwalk”. Land between church and rectory was church land-Samuel farmed it-but poorly. Baptismal font-always near door-so you could be baptized on arrival in church. The font dates back to original church.

PARISH CHEST-for records (dated 1538) carved from tree trunk.

Records of Pastors goes back to 1319 showing number of pastors. First fire in 1702 and then in 1709. He refused to leave in spite of the fires. He was put in Lincoln Jail because of debts and wrote the Arch Bishop of York that he thought he was doing more good preaching to the prisoners than at Epworth.

People were rebellious- govt attempted to drain the marshes and make it part of main land-they revolted and the Pilgrim Fathers who went to America-came from this area as a result of their feelings.

Main chancel window a memorial from mid-1800’s. One chair dates back to 1500 and there is also one called Susanna’s Chair.

Door to Vestry dates to middle ages. Memorial tablets show donors who left money to keep church going. Church originally supported by the “Lord of the Mound” the aristocracy who had all the money. If a person was quite wealthy he might be buried in the walls or under floor of church. Some of the Bishops buried under altar.

Most of stained glass windows go back 100 to 150 years. The idea was developed early in 19th century.

Reading desk, a brass stand with eagle.

Took a picture of Samuel Wesley’s Tomb (with Cato Edwards).

John came and asked to preach but they wouldn’t let him preach inside-so he preached from his father’s grave.

After stopping at the bank to convert to British currency, we returned to Old Rectory for lunch. A good vegetable soup and bread started the meal.

The Old Rectory

Built in 1709 to replace one burned down in February 1709-Cost about £400. Furnished by people who donated furnishings including the Wesley Sideboard-it is still there after over 300 years-The fire place wall withstood the fire and is still there. It forms an arch over fire place. Clock (1694) belonged to John Wesley-also a chair there which belongs to him. Wesley said we shouldn’t waste time, money or paper. The beams for the ceilings are from old ships that were lying along the River Trent.

Elegie

Thy purpose Lord we cannot see But all is good that’s done by thee. 

Of a Wife-Her bright smile filled our home with laughter

Of a Son (a Sgt Pilot killed in action over Germany):

He gave his greatest gift of all

His Young Unfinished Life.

Of a husband and father-The Day Thou Gavest, Lord, is ended.

See XXX Page for John Maw, died in 1833.

Wrote cards to Mom, Dave and John-also to Rev. Davis and Vernon and Julia Hanks, Dick and Virginia, Pat and Bob, Gert and Speed, Isabelle and Charlie, Curt and Marge.

Bought Mdse for $4.20 from Le Cato.

Dinner was roast lamb, boiled new potatoes, fresh peas and beans, gravy and bread, vanilla ice cream and sl. peaches and coffee for dessert.

At 7:30 we met at Edwards Yokefellow Lodge for a slideshow of Methodist Heritage followed by tea and cakes from IKKADU Collage in India. A wonderful visit followed with Cato and Hilda. We have invited them to visit us when they come to the states in October.

 

---

July 15, Tuesday

Coffe with Cato and Hilda in the [illegible] then to Old Rectory for a breakfast of [illegible] bacon and egg-bread and toast and coffee. Got pictures of the Dobinsons with Edwards at the Old Rectory. Departed at 9:30.

The trip to Coventry was thru typical British countryside—beautiful with a charm and quaintness that can’t be beat. I continue to be impressed by the neat, small hamlets, trim fields separated be hedgerows, matched dairy herds and the pride of ownership which shows in the beautiful rose gardens and painted doors.

Barren and Gillian met us at appointed spot and we went directly to Belgrade Theatre for lunch. I had tomato soup, steak and kidney pie, new potatoes, peas, and apple crisp and coffee. Average cost of lunch about 8’6d with our beverage. A tour of the Old Cathedral and New Cathedral was awe-inspiring. Went from there to St. Mary’s Guild Hall* and toured it. A fascinating example of 19th-15th century craftsmanship. Then to the Woodward for R and R and to church at Meriden about 7:00 for 7:30 dinner and matching up. We met the Lords and they are so very nice. We got a chance to visit out of the house later on. It has been a great day.

*St. Mary’s Guildhall—a medieval city in Lincoln, England.

---

July 16, Wednesday

Brkfst at 9:00 am. Served very formally with table set for Betty and myself. Special K, orange juice then bacon and 1 egg-toast and coffee. They serve it strong and it is good. Gwyneth buys a special blend and grinds as needed. A pleasant visit with them and then Hugh drove us to Meriden Church for pick up by coach.

Off to Warwick Castle and what a sight. It is perhaps the best preserved medieval castle in the world. Tour started at the chapel and progressed through many rooms, each more delightful than the last. They have the largest collection of Van Dykes in the world, plus works by Sargent, Hublein, Rubens and Joshua Reynolds.

Enough armor and weapons to outfit a party for the crusades plus several trophy horns from Irish Elk (extinct for 2000 years), one app. 9′ spread. They were perfectly preserved in peat bogs of Ireland. The bedrooms contained ancient tapestry and rugs as well, plus furniture dating back to the 14th or 15th century.

Tour ended in the blue room which is said to be haunted by no less than 6 ghosts. Seems many of these old timers met an untimely and unplanned end. 

From there we visited the castle gardens and saw a good example of former English gardens complete with strolling peacocks. My only regret was that we didn’t get around to the area by the old bridge (which we saw from inside the castle) over the River Avon. A post card we have shows this view.

On to Stratford-upon-Avon where we ate lunch at the Horseshoe (recommended to us by a Bobby). Had fried Haddock, veg. soup, fresh garden peas, new potatoes and topped off with a blackberry apple and custard dessert and tea. Thence to Will Shakespeare’s birthplace, a quaint old home and many of the furnishings authentic, plus which all were from that period. A very interesting tour. One can’t help but marvel at the genius of the man. Took a few pictures of the house from the garden side-then on to Anne Hathaway Cottage. A delightful farm home with thatched roof. Very quaint and immensely interesting. Near the fireplace between two ceiling beams a spot was seen with laths pegged to the beams-making a rack about a yard long. The guide told us it was a “BIKON CROTCH” (Bacon Cratch). A handy place to have it, I might add. One of the beds in upstairs room had side curtains of linsey woolsey and there were many objects used during the period by her family, such as a churn, a carder, pewter plates, etc. and a huge built in sideboard.

Back to the bus and on to the Baskerville farm, where we stopped for a glass of cold water and a short visit with Rich and his wife. It was the finish of milking time and Rich informed me that the herd of 80 had yielded 212 gal. that day. Also pointed out that some old farm records from 1913 revealed that milk fetched about the same price then as the farms get now and at that time hired help could be had for £1 per week. It appears in talking with these people that they are being taxed to death.

Arrived back at the Berryfield Home (Hugh and Gwyneth) at about 6:00 and wrote postcards to Mom, Bill and Nora, Mary and Ben and son John. Then down to a cold plate lunch dinner. Boiled Ham, cheese, scones and fresh raspberry jam, tomatoes, cheddar cheese (Canadian White), Fruit cake and Strawberry sponge flan with tea. Keith, the 16 yr old son was there. After a tour of the garden we went for a ride and saw Packington Hall of the Earl of Aylesford,  a huge estate complete with his own herd of black Fallow deer, Maxstoke Priory and on down to the side of a former monastery and climbed up to the top. Followed this with a visit to Keith who was just recently married. Built his own home and it’s a beauty. Stopped at the Bear (a pub) for lemonade and ginger beer then home for a visit and coffee and more refreshments (the remains of supper) and more visiting. To bed about 1:30 and it felt good.

 

---

July 17, Thursday

A busy day! From my father’s notes—

Breakfast at Lords and a few pictures of Hugh, Gwyneth and Kevin-then off to Meriden Church and bus to Oxford. Ate at the Cadena Cafeteria. Buck Rarebit Sandwich, 2 English sausages and tea for me. Bob and I then walked the downtown area but didn’t buy anything. Took a slide looking down the street to an old cathedral, also a couple of shots of an old cathedral and graveyard in center of town.

Back to the bus and on to London, arriving about 4:30 at the Senator Hotel, Room 74. Our dresser collapsed when I leaned on it and reported to desk. Dinner was a pork chop and cabbage (following chicken noodle soup and chips (fr. fries). Dessert of a ring of pineapple topped with a scoop of ice cream. Then off by underground to see Big Ben and Westminster on the Thames. Home and in bed by 10:30.

---

July 18, Friday

Up at 6:30, breakfast at 8:00 of egg, bacon, toast, roll and coffee. Off at 9:30 with Eddie driving and Gerald Dekin as guide. Past Royal Lancaster and Hyde Park-larger than the principality of Monaco. It a very pretty park bordering on The Serpentine and Kensington Gardens. Took a slide of Prince Albert Memorial! 

On to Exhibition Road and past Albert Hall, then into South Kensington and past the Natural History Museum, then the Victoria and Albert Museum and Brompton Parish-a German Catholic church. On to Brompton Road and exclusive shopping district (Harrods, etc.). Reach by underground (Knightsbridge Station). Passed the Ritz to James Street and Simpson’s on the Strand and onto Piccadilly Circus and National Art Gallery to Trafalgar Square, then to Parliament Square.

Pictures of Big Ben and Parliament building and Lambeth Palace. Passed the Abbey and down the Thames to Ludgate Circus-the Street of Newspapers and on to the Old Curiosity Shop. Bought a set of teaspoons (£1.10) and a guide book to The Old Curiosity Shop. Then, on to Buckingham Palace via Admiralty Arch and St. James Park-one of the prettiest in London.

After watching the changing of the guard, we returned to Hotel for lunch of trout, chips and green beans-tea (extra) and plums with cream. The soup at start of meal was a good deal like Scotch Broth. There are two pictures in the dining room I’d love to have—a country scene showing English or Highland cattle in a farm yard. They shriek of authenticity.

Oxford St. – Selfridge – Marks & Spencer (Hilda called it Marks & Spades). Good shop area.

Then, on to St. Paul’s Cathedral. There has been a church here since the 16th century-but has been burned twice-last time during the 1600s. Hard to conceive of the magnitude of this place, even after seeing it. Viewed the tomb of Lord Nelson and Duke of Wellington and funeral carriage. 

At the tower-took pictures of old wall erected 1240 then on to see the Crown Jewels-a fabulous assortment of gems including the Kohinoor diamond. The real thrill, however, came in viewing the arms collection in the tower. It was unbelievable to say the least. The most beautiful and intricate inlay work imaginable in the stocks and grips of the guns. Many dated back to the 1500s. Also-many with most intricate etching in the metal as well as finely turned metal parts. The collection of swords, axes, maces, halberds, etc. and armor is overwhelming. Not near enough time here. A person should plan half a day anyway.

Back to the hotel to change for our dinner date at the Simpson’s in the Strand. Truly an outstanding meal—fillets of [illegible] with smoked eel, then clear turtle soup (in sherry), a water cress salad and roast beef with Yorkshire pudding, oven brown potatoes and cabbage. As a matter of interest I ordered Bubbles and Squeaks (cabbage and pieces of boiled potato mixed together and heated in a pan-in butter). It was quite good and the beef served au jus was excellent. Plenty of good horseradish sauce—a specialty of the house—completed it and we were ready for our dessert. I ordered a boiled roll with treacle sauce. The Sherburnes and Whitakers were with us and all agreed it was an outstanding meal. The total cost, including all tips, etc. came to about $4.50 per head. 

Tube from Charring Cross to Paddington and home.

---

July 19, Saturday

Rode bus to Oxford St. and shopped at Selfridges. Betty and I purchased a tea set—Westwood pattern. It’s a beauty and should arrive about 3 months from now. Bob and I walked the area and saw some interesting shops but I didn’t buy anything. Met at one for lunch and then to the British Museum (the Egyptian Display) and it was terrific. 

Lunch—Tomato Soup, crackers and Cheshire cheese. Back to the hotel about 3:30 and then Bob and I went to the laundromat and did up all our laundry.

Ate at the hotel and it was anything but exceptional—Roast lamb and chips, hard roll, no tea or coffee, Blackberries and cream for dessert and rush to make connection to see “Mame” with Ginger Rogers. Very good performance and then tube to home because cars did not return to pick us up. Home and bed by midnight. 

[Wikipedia—The 1969 West End production starred Ginger Rogers in the title role and Margaret Courtenay as Vera. It ran for a fourteen-month engagement at the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane with a special performance for Queen Elizabeth II. Victor Woolf was the stage manager for this production.]

[Mame premiere, February 20, 1969, former newsreel video]

---

July 20, Sunday

It would be nice if some arrangements had been made to go to church and then time allowed to see the art work for sale along the sidewalk bordering Hyde Park. This occurred to me as we went to the airport, after our usual breakfast and checkout. Picked up sandwiches and tea-English style-at the buffet and then on to Flight 130 KLM for our trip to Amsterdam. Mailed the last of our English postcards-got some off to Fred and John as well as my family plus Rev. Davis, Rev. Hanks, and our two host families.

It was exciting to get to Holland and meet Fred Kunz, our driver—

On to Hotel Centraal after converting $40 to 144 Guilders and 20 cents. Nice note from Sis and happy to hear Sunny is back. We have a lovely room on 5th floor-#518 with good view down the street behind and out over the rooftops.

Supper at 6:30. [Illegible], a good soup, 1/2 broiled chicken with apple sauce and potato fried in butter. Topped off with a wafer and chocolate sundae (no drink) off at 8:00 pm for a canal ride (3 guilders). The guide was a young lady and she was very well informed on the history of this old city and showed us many interesting landmarks. She pointed out that Amsterdam has over 1,000,000 residents-a million rats, 400 canals and 600,000 bicycles. The cruise lasted an hour and was most enjoyable. Coffee with the Sherburnes and Whitakers then to the room. Bob Huddleston phoned to ask me to sub for him Sunday and I agreed.

---

July 21, Monday

Breakfast at 8:00. Caught a rerun on the astronauts walking on the surface of the moon. Bkfst Dutch Style, Rolls, Rusk, Cheese and Marmalade, Butter and plenty of coffee—orange juice extra.

First stop was Anne Frank House and we could hardly believe the suffering people had to go through—a period of over 2 years when their friends concealed them and pretended they no longer existed. The family finally was captured and shipped to a concentration camp. The only one still alive is the father.

From there to the Rijksmuseum and viewed the works of the old masters, purchased prints of Night Watch and The Census. 

Then, back to the hotel for lunch—Kale soup and rolls, veal, saffron rice, peas, and an apple for dessert. No drink.

Visited a diamond factory after lunch, then shopped. Light supper at the  Harkema—I had sausage and roll (like a wiener), very good, and a coffee. Back to the hotel by bus. Made a couple of cups of coffee with my Douwe Egberts Instant. It was quite good with a piece of pastry I had bought.

Loafed for the evening and slept early.

---

July 22, Tuesday

Eight am breakfast but today I ordered Spiegeleier mit Spek (2 eggs with bacon) to go with mine. Then, off to Delft and an interesting tour through the plant, De Delftse Pauw, one of the 2 authentic Delft concerns. Their mark—

Forgot to mention—a barrel organ concert after breakfast. Everyone threw coins to the 3 men. It was fun.

From there we went to Madurodam and visited the miniature city. Everything is 1/25 scale and it actually works! Took several slides during morning, showing windmills, etc. Also, some of the many bicyclists.

After lunch (coffee and a ham and cheese sandwich) we visited a wooden shoe factory in Aalsmeer and some tea towels.

A nice ride home and back to the room at 4:30. Dinner was boiled potatoes [illegible] with butter, a veg dish of tiny carrots, peas, tiny onions, and sliced mushroom, followed by braised beef and gravy. Dessert was ice cream and whipping cream (frozen) with strawberry topping. No drink.

Boat ride with Sherburnes and Whitakers to top it all off and to bed at 11:30.

---

July 23, Wednesday

Usual breakfast (same as yesterday) then checked out and left for Germany. Country continued hazy. Crossed border about 11:30 (2 1/2 hr. trip). Heading for Cologne. It is a huge cathedral. I bought a slide of the cathedral and we got Marilyn’s Christmas present (Rhine Crystal in Sterling silver).

Ham sandwich for lunch w/coke and off to Bonn to visit the Beethoven House. It was very interesting and I took a slide from the rear, one from the upper window and one across the garden of Beethoven’s bust.

Then on to Frankfurt and arrived about 8:00 pm. We met Frau Schörr and son (Wolfgang). She only knew a few words of English and he had had 1 year in school. We journeyed by street car to Schwanheim on the very edge of Frankfurt. They informed us that Mr. Schörr is in the States. He is with Hertz and is receiving training there in Cincinnati. Meanwhile he has had many side trips.

We enjoyed a nice cold plate of wurst, cheese, bread and salad and hard boiled eggs and tomatoes. Fruit flavor drink, then home made apricot ice cream—it was delicious. We then saw slides of some of their vacations (holidays) and to bed at 11:30.

---

July 24, Thursday

Up at 6:00 and breakfast at 7:00 out on the patio. Bread, wurst and marmalade or strawberry jam plus coffee. Then Frau Schörr and Betty posed for some pictures in front of the house. I had already got pictures of the children in back.

Then off by street car to the church. Auf Wiedersehen to the Schörr family and then into Seminary where we saw slides of Frankfurt, a tour of the seminary and then off to Heidelberg. A lunch of bratwurst and gravy (w/soy sauce), plus sauerkraut and spuds with black coffee and we’re off to shop. Bought a beautiful candle and a box for Marilyn’s gift. Then to the castle. A leisurely look at the grounds after cable car ride then a tour of the castle. The guide was very good and had a great sense of humor. He pointed out the fact that the former residents of the castle used to average 2 1/2 gal. of wine per day. There are 2 huge barrels in the basement. They’re large enough to use as a small house. Back to the bus and due to lateness of hour we are by-passing Black Forest. We will go through a part of it on the way to Zurich from Basel. Wrote cards to Mom, Davises, Marilyn, the Edwards and the Lords—also one to Bill Floerchinger. 

Arrived at the border and on to church around 8:00. Martin arrived about 8:30 and to his house by tram. Soft drinks followed by pound cake and tea than bed.

---

July 25, Friday

Breakfast was bread and cheese, jam, coffee and cocoa. To church by 9:00 and off to the Black Forest. Stopped at  (lake) and had lunch and visited shops. No purchases (mostly cuckoo clocks). We sat by lake and visited for a while, then off to St. Blasien where we visited a monastery. Took several pictures en route—then one of a statue at the monastery. We stopped for pictures at several spots in the Black Forest and then returned to Basel for a ferry boat ride across the Rhine to visit the cathedral—Roman and early Gothic Architecture. On one tower facade is a statue of St. George and dragon, other side St. Mark sharing his coat with a beggar.

To the church for supper. Bread, tea and fruit salad. Then to Martin Boerlins’ home for slides and to bed.

---

July 26, Saturday

Visited Roman ruins at Basel and a reproduction of a Roman villa. It was fascinating to see. After lunch we shopped and then to Lucerne. We stopped on the way and visited a chapel dedicated to William Tell. Supper near there and then on to Lucerne where we met the Frau Haller and Josef Di Boni—He transferred our luggage to the car and interpreted for us. Later we all went to the Mueller home where Whitakers stayed. Then a ride thru Lucern with Josef and home to bed.

---

July 27, Sunday

Up at 6:00 and worked on church service—then breakfast and to church. Onto the bus and a short sight seeing trip with a walk over the wooden bridge and a view of the monastery and Catholic Church. Back to our church for 10:45 service. Our tour  and one other gave us a nice crowd along with the English speaking members. My message was based on the Four Spiritual Laws.

There were eight ministers in the audience (from Baptist churches mostly) from Florida, one from Sussex England (Presbyterian).

Off by bus for the Alps and a picnic. Then to lake side at Brienz to eat it. Wood carving shop there where Betty bought a candle holder. Next we stayed at Grindelwald and rode chair lift to top.

A nice hike and some pictures then to Interlaken for dinner and on to Bern where we met Fritz and Rose-Mary Jenny. They are fine people and we enjoyed their company. A nice sleep and up for breakfast at 7:00.

---

July 28, Monday

First we visited the Rose Garden and looked across the Aare at the old city of Bern. All the buildings must maintain the old style of architecture.  The roses were very beautiful and so was the lily pond.

On to the Bear Pit—then a view of the old wall from across river and up to the clock tower to watch all the activity at hour of 11:00 am. On to the cathedral. A beautiful building with many examples of excellent restoration. The “Platform” outside-above the river was beautiful. Nice gardens and many large trees and a view of the Aare River. To Gurten for lunch and a little walk with a view of the city and surrounding country.

The afternoon was free for shopping and we got watches for the boys, some prints and some candles. To church for a dinner of Vienna sausage, potato salad and lettuce and tomatoes. It was great. Caught 8:30 bus back out to our host’s home. Rosemary had sausage, bread and cheese (Camembert, Tilsiter, Emmenthal). Also a delicious carbonated apple cider. A nice visit and then bed.

---

July 29, Tuesday

We were up early enough to finish breakfast and take a nice walk with a view of the river. Then a cab ride into the city and off and rolling by 9:00.We had lunch at Lac Retaud, a delicious soup, steak with peas, beans, and carrots. Good bread, coffee and fresh wild strawberries and cream.

The boys rowed on the lake for a while and we continued on down the Rhone with its spectacular vineyards and quaint towns and hamlets.

Arrived at Geneva about 6:00 and dinner at 7:00. Bob H. rejoined us here—but due to an illness, Helen had returned to the States. We pray she is OK. A walk of the area with Sherburnes and the Whitakers and then to bed. 

---

July 30, Wednesday

Started at Ecumenical Service Center which houses the World Council of Churches. 

Next we visited The Palace of the Nations, which houses the United Nations offices and conference rooms. There is a fine view from the area. The assembly room will seat 2000 (all of the 126 countries-if they were all to attend). Interpretations in 5 languages and only 1/2 sentence behind the speaker-two speakers to each cabinet-changing off each 15 minutes. They are trained not to hear their own voice, only that of the speaker. $110 million budget (our military budget is 80 Billion). The main concern here is social (at NY hdq. it is politics). Example of good is UNESCO is now engaged in building 500 schools. UNICEF controlled by Economics and Social Concern Committee. Decor of the council chamber represents development of mankind. Most important documents are signed here (Korea armistice, etc.).

Sculpture in outer chamber represents man’s fall and his rescue by God, also God’s gifts to man and a passage from Psalms. From there we went to visit the Cathedral of St. Pierre, next to the Methodist Church. 

From there we visited the Reformation Garden and saw the statues of Calvin, Beza, Knox and Farel. 

Spent pm shopping and got a cheese board and 2 dictionary-phrase books (one French and one German). Found a comfy pair of sandals for Betty and a roll of film. A treat at Movenpick and back there for supper. I had a bowl of yellow pea soup, ham omelette and coffee. Then a boat ride on Lake Zurich and to bed.

---

July 31, Thursday

Left at 9:00 to French border soon after. The homes do not appear as nice nor the yards as well kept as those of Switzerland. The towns seemed to be quite run down-especially the small ones. We stopped at one for rest, etc. and it was not much scenically speaking. The small bar went into was ill-kept and it was pleasure to move on. We stopped at a turn-off a little later and ate our delicious picnic lunch. This place too, was quite dirty and I’m sorry to report-reminded us of the United States due to the littering, etc.

Also-there were no rest room facilities so we had to go down the road and into the trees-this is the kind of situation that is less complicated for a man, of course, I noticed what appeared to be a full carpet of poison ivy running this section of the woods. After lunch we resumed our journey. The countryside and towns continued drab and dull by contrast to the beauty and cleanliness of Switzerland. Nowhere did we see evidence of the pride and beautification noticed everywhere, large and small city alike, (as well as countryside) during the previous weeks. The homes appeared drab and dull-fields very weedy although at a distance the countryside had a certain rustic appeal. The weather was fairly cool and hazy. Large herds of white cattle (may have been Charolais) appeared everywhere, and about 5:30 or 6:00 we arrived in the outskirts of Paris. It was a continual blend of the old and the new (and generally the very old and the very new) Old ramshackle apartment houses were being torn down and replaced with modern high-rise complexes.

We checked in to the Hotel Commodore and prepared for our dinner. They served a delicious soup, fish with cream and mushroom sauce, roast beef and freshly cooked celery plus potatoes. Dessert was dish of ice cream and quite good. We capped the day’s drive with a tour of some of the high lights of the city [illegible]. 

Thru Paris

First a trip down the Place de la Concorde, then past the Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Élysées, and the Eiffel Tower. The fountains were all playing on the pools at the base of the tower and it all conspired to make a most memorable sight. I must say that if you have never seen these wonderful sights of Paris try to see them for the first time at night. There is a tremendous feel of majesty to seeing them for the first time at night. They dominate completely your sense and the impact, I am sure, will last for many years. 

To the hotel and bed and it felt so very good after such a day as this.

---

August 1, Friday

Up and at ’em at 6:30 and the breakfast was continental style-rolls, jam and coffee, and quite good. The coffee continued strong but has an excellent flavor.

Left at 9:00 for our tour and went directly to the Palace of Versailles. It may present somewhat of a decrepit facade from outside, but upon entering this is all left behind and the overwhelming beauty and majesty of sculptures, fresco, domed ceilings, beautiful paintings, tapestry, mosaic, etc, soon combine to captivate your imagination completely. I believe one of the most interesting parts was the gallery depicting France’s illustrious military victories (starting with Joan of Arc and ending with Napoleon’s campaigns. A walk past the magnificent gardens capped our visit and most of us took pictures of our friends at this point.

From there we went to Les Invalides and viewed Napoleon’s tomb.

To me, however The most memorable feature was the statuary of 6 French soldiers who bore the casket of Marshal Foch. Viewing from the archway—in the vague, half-blue light filtering thru a nearby window-one seemed to be borne back half a century to the exact time and place. I attempted a time exposure and hope it comes out.

A short side trip down the avenue bordering the Seine and to Notre Dame, which we viewed from the outside only and onto the Louvre. Here we viewed some of the most beautiful and famous works of art of all time. It is hard to believe that mere man is capable of capturing beauty in life and stone in such a wondrous manner. But when you view Venus de Milo and Winged Victory for the first time, they literally captivate you with their beauty. Mona Lisa is, of course, a beautiful painting as are the many housed here. 

Particularly enjoyed some of the works of Rubens and one in particular-“Letter to a Young Lady” was especially captivating. There were many others depicting pastoral landscapes such as I love as well as countless other ones. Back to the hotel and an afternoon of shopping at Galeries Lafayette and Printemps which Bob informed me meant “In spring time”. We didn’t have much money left but bought Marilyn a bottle of perfume.

Back to the hotel and prepare for supper. On the way back (the stores were now closed) the young people-perhaps hippies-had set up “Blanket Shops” on the sidewalks. They spread out blankets-displayed their wares consisting mostly of jewelry and put little price cards by the articles. They seemed to attract a fair crowd. One young African had an interesting display of wood-carving, but the prices started at 100 Francs and it was too late in the trip for that kind of purchase. 

A meal of soup, fish, roast pork and vegetables followed by cake and we were free for the evening. Most of the gang was lined up for the Folies Bergère and left about 8:00. We had elected to skip it and were told later we had made a wise decision. We spent the evening packing and went to bed around 10:00, well-organized and ready for the long trip home.

---

August 2, Saturday

Up at 5:30 and put the finishing touch on packing and making ready to leave.

I listed our total purchases-including slides and guide books and it came to a bit over $160.0

Breakfast at 7:00 am and on the bus by 8:00. We had a chance to get pictures of Fred and his family before leaving for Bourget.The plane was delayed a little but soon on the way. An occasional glimpse of France-then the channel was under us. Mostly obscured by clouds but clear when we got to the coast of England. Betty tried for a picture. We landed at Heathrow and transferred from BEA to TWA and again were delayed but finally left [illegible] (about 1:15). The cloud cover soon enveloped us as we reached for 33,000 feet and moved out over the North Atlantic. 

Had a delicious meal of Roast Beef, potatoes, green beans,  rolls and coffee and Gruyère and apple pie. From then on the trip was a little uneventful until Greenland came in sight. Next we saw part of Canada. Greenland was the most interesting as the lakes all contained many floating ice bergs. To the North we saw more lakes, also glaciers and the ice fields. 

The pilot reported that a station directly below had reported it was a beautiful day with a temperature of 41°—the nicest day so far this summer.

Soon after, the lake district of Canada came in sight and then the Great Lakes. We came in to O’Hare about 15 minutes ahead of schedule and landed immediately.

Customs was no problem at all and once cleared we grabbed the shuttle bus for United terminal.

Boarded on time but left about 1/2 hour late.

Air was clear and Betty enjoyed the view once we were airborne (about 10 planes landed and almost as many took off while we were waiting).

---

Impressions

The family feeling of excitement as we lifted off the ground from Salt Lake at the start of our trip

The fun of seeing Thelma and Ray at the Chicago Airport.

The thrill-one which may never be quite as heightened-as the big TWA plane bore us up into the blue on our way to London.

The strange feeling that accompanied day breakfast at 10:00 pm our time and full daylight by 11.

The excitement of stepping down to the ground and knowing we were in London.

The captivating trip to Epworth thru the rustically beautiful English countryside.

Le Cato and Hilda and their total warmth. It seemed as though we had known these dear people forever.

Coventry-and its unbelievable contrast-followed by the perfect hosts-Hugh and Gwyneth.

Fun time in London-eating at Simpsons on the Strand and the unbelievable sights following the historical trips we’d already had.

Eddie-and his effervescent sense of humor. I hope he can move into a good paying job. He should make it big.

Holland and its quaint majesty-canalrides-cheese-and strong coffee.

The first sight of a windmill and a trip thru Delft pottery works and the Rijksmuseum.

The Rhine and the vineyards and a new experience for us as overnight guests of the Schörr family. Frau Schörr able to speak only a few words but communicating thru her smile, her eyes, her children.

The trip to Switzerland via Heidelberg (a most interesting tour), a town that needs more time.

Hospitality everywhere, but reaching unforgettable warmth at Lucerne in spite of language barrier.

The Hallers were the perfect hosts.

Bern-almost a legendary city and a friendly feeling supplied by Fritz and Rose-Mary. Hope they can come and visit us. They were wonderful.

The majesty of the Alps. Grindelwald, chair-lift, lakes, mountains, chalets, quaint town and everything so very clean and spic and span.

The exceptional good humor of all the tour members, their co-operation, eagerness to share and communicate.

We must plan to come back would that this feeling of fellowship and communication would spread everywhere for then peace would come at last.

Fred is so accommodating and so capable. He bears a strong resemblance to Johnny Weissmuller. His wife Lydia is quite charming and so is daughter Sonja. They hope to visit the states next year and we hope they come to Salt Lake.

The Tour Members

Bob-capable and businesslike and enjoys sharing responsibility.

Helen-a good running mate and knows what to do and when.

George-His sense of humor kept us in stitches more times than we could tell.

Alida-Her gentle good nature and warm smile a real asset and she LOVES chocolate.

Herb-So interesting. I wouldn’t have missed the fellowship with him for anything. We enjoyed many things together and I gained a lot from this.

Phyllis-Lots of fun to be with and she enjoyed sharing our joke all along the line.

Phillip-a poised young man and good companion with good humor.

Sherry-She bubbles-like the wine by the same name.

Hazel-Friendly and appreciative and acquainted with the Hanks gamily. Had some good visits.

Mabel-An inspiration to us all. So good humored and always on top of the situation. A real gem.

Betty [Illegible]-Already a world traveler-good companion and former Montanan. Her knowledge of places and things added much.

Ruth Holden-Her ready smile and complete good-naturedness helped to make our trip a complete success.

Nancy-A good natural recipient of all manner of puns, shaggy dog stories, etc., Bob’s sister.

Ruth King-Bob’s mom and a good traveler-we enjoyed her company.

Charlie-A good sense of humor and a good traveling companion.

The Hayes-We loved it.